Re: Hammer coral showing skeleton
Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2025 9:15 pm
Your hammer, from what I can see in the picture, seems like it's still got a chance - it's just getting a bit too much direct flow, in my opinion. I'd suggest trimming off the dying tissue and giving it an iodine-rich dip. I've noticed that if they don't get enough light, the overlapping membrane tends to recede.
Wall hammers, or any wall euphyllia for that matter, require a lot more TLC when you first get them. Shipping can be pretty rough on them, and people often make the mistake of blasting them with too much light and flow right off the bat.
Make sure your phosphate levels aren't too high, and your nitrates are in check as well. When you first get one of these guys, especially if it's been shipped in from overseas, keep an eye out for brown jelly or white jelly. I'd recommend dipping it in an iodine-rich solution twice a day and gently removing any dying or necrotic tissue.
After that, put it in medium lighting - around 250 PAR - and keep the water movement active but at a low velocity. I've had pretty good luck with maricultured or aquacultured specimens, personally.
This isn't my first wall euphyllia, by the way - I've been keeping these guys for about 15 years now. Give it a month or so, and the tentacles should start to get "sticky" again, which is a good sign. At that point, you can start feeding it bits of mysid shrimp to give it a boost.
Wall hammers, or any wall euphyllia for that matter, require a lot more TLC when you first get them. Shipping can be pretty rough on them, and people often make the mistake of blasting them with too much light and flow right off the bat.
Make sure your phosphate levels aren't too high, and your nitrates are in check as well. When you first get one of these guys, especially if it's been shipped in from overseas, keep an eye out for brown jelly or white jelly. I'd recommend dipping it in an iodine-rich solution twice a day and gently removing any dying or necrotic tissue.
After that, put it in medium lighting - around 250 PAR - and keep the water movement active but at a low velocity. I've had pretty good luck with maricultured or aquacultured specimens, personally.
This isn't my first wall euphyllia, by the way - I've been keeping these guys for about 15 years now. Give it a month or so, and the tentacles should start to get "sticky" again, which is a good sign. At that point, you can start feeding it bits of mysid shrimp to give it a boost.