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Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:35 am
by jazeron
I've got a 55-gallon tank with a dual strip 4ft light - one's daylight, the other's actinic (meant for corals, so it's pretty intense). No nutrient or CO2 dosing for me, and I've got the lights on a 10-hour timer.
Someone told me my lighting was fine, but my schedule was off, so I got the timer. It's been three months now, and I'm still dealing with algae. My plants aren't exactly thriving - I even replaced the old ones with new ones, but they're just getting covered in algae. They're not dying, but they're not looking great either.
I've got plenty of fish, so I figured that'd be enough nutrients. What's going on here?
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 3:54 am
by boomer
Lighting and nutrients go hand in hand in a planted tank. Let's tackle both issues.
Actinic light isn't ideal for planted tanks, as it promotes algae growth. Although having a daylight tube helps balance it out, I'd still recommend replacing the actinic tube. I assume your daylight tube has a Kelvin rating around 6500K? If so, consider pairing it with a 5000K tube – I've found this combo works well in my own tanks. If you prefer a cooler tone, you could opt for another 6500K tube instead.
To better understand your setup, I need to know if you're using T8 or T5 fluorescent lights. The T5s are significantly more intense, which affects your overall lighting balance.
Given your dual-tube setup over a 55-gallon tank, you'll likely need a comprehensive supplement to provide sufficient nutrients. The plant species, fish load, and water changes all play a role, but with two tubes, it's unlikely you'll have enough nutrients without supplementation – especially if you're using T5s. Can you share more about your fish load and the GH of your source water?
Once we balance your lighting and nutrients, we can reassess your duration. I've found that 8 hours of daily lighting (one of my tanks gets only 7 hours) helps prevent algae issues. However, we need to consider the other factors as well. Ambient light in the room can also impact algae growth – I've noticed an increase in brush algae during summer months when the room receives more natural light.
Lastly, what type of algae are you dealing with?
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 5:54 am
by jazeron
I believe they are T5's - I got it at Home Depot and I'm pretty sure they don't have T8's. I recently changed to the blue light, about 1-2 weeks ago. I had two 6500K daylight tubes before, and I can switch back if needed. The blue light helps the colors of my sunfish pop, but I'm open to changing it back if it's causing issues. My fish load consists of six 1-2" sunfish - dollar, northern longear, and banded. The bioload is similar to cichlids. I also have 5 minnows and a chub - one minnow is about 2" and the rest are just under an inch, while the chub is 3". Additionally, I have 3 full-grown gkento4t danios and 3 2" rosy barbs, although the barbs are temporarily in the tank.
I used to dose nutrients, but I had an even worse algae problem back then. However, I still have all the necessary nutrients, including Aqueon "Plant Food" and Envy and Propel by Aquavitro, so I can start dosing again if you think it'll help. My plants include Bacopa, red ludwigia, green crypts, a small amount of surviving chain sword, and a tall, thin, grass-like plant that's actually thriving. The algae on the back wall is green spot algae, while the one on the plants appears to be brown algae - it makes the plants look like they're covered in dirt. Oh, and I forgot to mention that my light fixture is raised up about an inch or two.
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 6:58 am
by boomer
jazeron wrote: ↑Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:35 am
I've got a 55-gallon tank with a dual strip 4ft light - one's daylight, the other's actinic (meant for corals, so it's pretty intense). No nutrient or CO2 dosing for me, and I've got the lights on a 10-hour timer.
Someone told me my lighting was fine, but my schedule was off, so I got the timer. It's been three months now, and I'm still dealing with algae. My plants aren't exactly thriving - I even replaced the old ones with new ones, but they're just getting covered in algae. They're not dying, but they're not looking great either.
I've got plenty of fish, so I figured that'd be enough nutrients. What's going on here?
The T5 or T8 issue is quite important...take a closer look at the tubes, there should be some data at one end that indicates which type they are. I'd rather wait for confirmation before providing specific advice, as the solution will vary greatly depending on the type. However, regarding the algae, the green spot algae will require manual removal, but once we achieve balance, it shouldn't be a problem. The "brown" algae, I suspect, is a form of brush algae. It's a red algae that often appears as dark green, brown, or even black. This is usually caused by an imbalance, often too much light, although excessive fertilization can also lead to it.
It's crucial to identify the type of algae you're dealing with. I'll describe it in more detail: brush algae is typically a bit more stubborn and can't be easily removed from plant leaves, unlike diatoms, which have a brown film-like appearance and can be removed with your fingertips.
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 8:40 am
by jazeron
I've confirmed the algae in the first picture you sent is exactly what I'm dealing with - it's a match. I'll check the tubes when I get home in about an hour to confirm whether they're T5 or T8. Also, the plant in the first picture is the grass-like plant I mentioned earlier, the one that's actually thriving despite the algae issues.
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 10:17 am
by jazeron
boomer said:
The T5 or T8 issue is very important...have a look at the tubers, at one end there will be some data and it should say which.
I stopped by Home Depot after work and picked up a 5000k T8 bulb. I also checked the bulb I have, and it's a 6500k T8. I'll admit, my fish don't look as vibrant without the blue light, but I'm willing to make a compromise since my plants are important to me too. My sunfish are still young, so they don't have much color yet. Once they reach about 3", they'll have better colors that won't require special lighting to look nice.
So, both bulbs are T8... what's the next step?
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 12:29 pm
by boomer
jazeron wrote: ↑Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:35 am
I've got a 55-gallon tank with a dual strip 4ft light - one's daylight, the other's actinic (meant for corals, so it's pretty intense). No nutrient or CO2 dosing for me, and I've got the lights on a 10-hour timer.
Someone told me my lighting was fine, but my schedule was off, so I got the timer. It's been three months now, and I'm still dealing with algae. My plants aren't exactly thriving - I even replaced the old ones with new ones, but they're just getting covered in algae. They're not dying, but they're not looking great either.
I've got plenty of fish, so I figured that'd be enough nutrients. What's going on here?
Alright, so I've got both bulbs checked, and they're T8, a 6500k and a 5000k. I'll admit, the fish don't look as vibrant without the blue light, but I'm willing to compromise for the plants' sake. My sunfish are still young, so they don't have much color yet, but once they reach about 3" they'll have better colors that won't require the blue light to look nice.
Now that we've established the bulb type, I'm curious to know what's next. I've already reduced the lighting duration to 8 hours daily, and I'm considering regular fertilization with a comprehensive liquid supplement. I've got Aqueon Plant Food and Seachem AquaVitro products on hand, but I'm not sure which one to use. I've heard that using both might cause algae issues, so I'll stick to one for now.
I'm thinking of using the Aqueon Plant Food, as it seems to have a similar formula to the AV Envy. I'll start with the recommended dosage, 2 tsp per 10g once a week, and divide it out over the week. Maybe 4 tsp the day after the water change, and 4 tsp three days after that. I've also read that it's best to spread out the fertilizer dosage over several days, so I'll give that a try.
It's going to take a few weeks to see the results, but I'm hoping that with the new lighting and fertilization schedule, I'll be able to get the algae under control and get my plants thriving. I'll keep an eye on the tank and make adjustments as needed.
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:20 pm
by jazeron
boomer wrote: ↑Mon Jan 31, 2022 3:54 am
Lighting and nutrients go hand in hand in a planted tank. Let's tackle both issues.
Actinic light isn't ideal for planted tanks, as it promotes algae growth. Although having a daylight tube helps balance it out, I'd still recommend replacing the actinic tube. I assume your daylight tube has a Kelvin rating around 6500K? If so, consider pairing it with a 5000K tube – I've found this combo works well in my own tanks. If you prefer a cooler tone, you could opt for another 6500K tube instead.
To better understand your setup, I need to know if you're using T8 or T5 fluorescent lights. The T5s are significantly more intense, which affects your overall lighting balance.
Given your dual-tube setup over a 55-gallon tank, you'll likely need a comprehensive supplement to provide sufficient nutrients. The plant species, fish load, and water changes all play a role, but with two tubes, it's unlikely you'll have enough nutrients without supplementation – especially if you're using T5s. Can you share more about your fish load and the GH of your source water?
Once we balance your lighting and nutrients, we can reassess your duration. I've found that 8 hours of daily lighting (one of my tanks gets only 7 hours) helps prevent algae issues. However, we need to consider the other factors as well. Ambient light in the room can also impact algae growth – I've noticed an increase in brush algae during summer months when the room receives more natural light.
Lastly, what type of algae are you dealing with?
I'm glad I could help you figure out the issue with your tank. Now that we know both bulbs are T8, we can move forward with some changes.
First, I want to say that T5 bulbs are really bright and would be hard to manage in a 55g tank without CO2 and daily fertilization. So, it's good that you have T8 bulbs.
Now, let's talk about the Kelvin. I used to use "cool" white lights, but I found that algae was more of a problem when I had those. I've been using 6500K and 5000K bulbs for a while now, and I've noticed a big difference. I think you'll like the new lighting once you get used to it.
To get your tank balanced, I would recommend reducing the light duration to 8 hours a day. This will make it easier to manage the algae and help your plants grow. I also recommend using a comprehensive liquid supplement to fertilize your plants. You can use either the Aqueon Plant Food or the Seachem AquaVitro Envy. Just follow the instructions on the label and divide the dose over a few days.
I think it's great that you're willing to compromise on the lighting for the sake of your plants. Your sunfish will still look great, and they'll get more colorful as they grow. Just remember to make changes one at a time so you can see what's working and what's not. It might take a few weeks to see results, but I'm confident that your tank will start to thrive.
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 4:33 pm
by boomer
You're very welcome, jazeron. Keep me posted on the progress, and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions or concerns. As I mentioned earlier, some fine-tuning is likely along the way, but observing the response of your plants will be the best indicator that we're on the right track.
Re: Diagnosing plant problems: what's going wrong?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 5:36 pm
by shakinStevens
boomer wrote: ↑Mon Jan 31, 2022 3:54 am
Lighting and nutrients go hand in hand in a planted tank. Let's tackle both issues.
Actinic light isn't ideal for planted tanks, as it promotes algae growth. Although having a daylight tube helps balance it out, I'd still recommend replacing the actinic tube. I assume your daylight tube has a Kelvin rating around 6500K? If so, consider pairing it with a 5000K tube – I've found this combo works well in my own tanks. If you prefer a cooler tone, you could opt for another 6500K tube instead.
To better understand your setup, I need to know if you're using T8 or T5 fluorescent lights. The T5s are significantly more intense, which affects your overall lighting balance.
Given your dual-tube setup over a 55-gallon tank, you'll likely need a comprehensive supplement to provide sufficient nutrients. The plant species, fish load, and water changes all play a role, but with two tubes, it's unlikely you'll have enough nutrients without supplementation – especially if you're using T5s. Can you share more about your fish load and the GH of your source water?
Once we balance your lighting and nutrients, we can reassess your duration. I've found that 8 hours of daily lighting (one of my tanks gets only 7 hours) helps prevent algae issues. However, we need to consider the other factors as well. Ambient light in the room can also impact algae growth – I've noticed an increase in brush algae during summer months when the room receives more natural light.
Lastly, what type of algae are you dealing with?
The green Crypts are doing alright as low to medium light plants, but the others are medium to bright. If you reduce your light to less than what you're doing now, your plants will likely slowly die. More hours of light can help compensate for your lack of light, but it'll also help the algae grow even more.
As for the nutrients, I know you said you have plenty of fish to provide them, but the amount of fertilizer produced by the fish may not be at the most favorable mix for good plant growth. With the plants currently struggling, much of the nutrients might be staying in the water or building up in the substrate. It's probably a good idea to do more water changes until you have the light situation corrected.