Fertilizers for healthy plant growth

[creekdwlr]

I've been around aquariums for a while, but planted tanks are a relatively new venture for me. I've had my fair share of failed attempts at keeping plants alive - they just wouldn't make it. Looking back, I can see it was a mix of bad lighting, poor plant choices, and inexperience.

However, I've recently managed to keep an Amazon sword plant alive for over a year, which is a record for me. I've been using Tetra's liquid fertilizer, but I've been hearing that I need to do more to encourage better growth and expand my plant options.

I recently planted some Top Fin Aquarium Bulbs from Petsmart, and after just five days, they're already sprouting. I want to make sure I'm providing them with enough nutrients.

My problem is that root tabs and other fertilizers are pretty pricey for what you get. I'm looking for a budget-friendly option or, even better, a DIY plant food solution.

[boomer]

I'll try to break it down for you since you're new to planted tanks. Light is the driving force behind photosynthesis, which is how plants grow. It's not just about having enough light, but also the right spectrum - red and blue are essential, and a bit of green helps too. I'm assuming you've got your lighting sorted.

Now, let's talk about nutrients. You need a balance of light and nutrients for your plants to thrive. There are 17 essential nutrients, and too much or too little of any one can cause problems. You'll often see algae take advantage of an imbalance.

Nutrients occur naturally, and your source water likely contains some of the harder minerals like calcium and magnesium. Fish food is also a good source of nutrients, which get broken down into the substrate by bacteria. This process also provides carbon, which is a macronutrient.

I'm guessing you're using Tetra's FloraPride fertilizer, which seems to be working for your sword plant. However, it might not be enough for multiple plants or faster-growing species. A more comprehensive fertilizer like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement or Brightwell's FlorinMulti would be a better choice. These liquids get absorbed by the plants' roots and leaves, providing a balanced mix of nutrients.

Substrate fertilizer tabs can be beneficial, especially for heavy-feeding plants like swords and bulb-type plants. I use Seachem's Flourish Tabs, which last for months, making them a cost-effective option.

As for making your own fertilizer, I wouldn't recommend using terrestrial fertilizers. They're not designed for aquatic plants and can cause more harm than good. It's safer to stick with specific aquatic plant products.

The products I mentioned might seem expensive, but you use very little of them. A package of 10 Flourish Tabs can last you over a year, depending on how you use them. API also makes substrate tabs, but I've heard mixed reviews and wouldn't recommend them.

[shakinStevens]

Second are nutrients. Light drives photosynthesis, but if the 17 required nutrients are not available, plants will be unable to photosynthesize fully or at all, depending upon the nutrient balance. Too much or too little of some or all nutrients can cause problems for plants, and usually algae takes advantage.

[goldminer]

If you're using an air stone or an air-powered sponge filter, wouldn't that also introduce CO2 and nitrogen into your tank, along with the oxygen being pumped in? Considering dry air is mostly nitrogen, with a small percentage of CO2, it seems like this could be a contributing factor to the breakdown of organics and the availability of these macronutrients in your tank.

[boomer]

If you're using an air stone or an air-powered sponge filter, wouldn't that also introduce CO2 and nitrogen into your tank, along with the oxygen being pumped in? Considering dry air is mostly nitrogen, with a small percentage of CO2, it seems like this could be a contributing factor to the breakdown of organics and the availability of these macronutrients in your tank.

I've delved into the topic of gas exchange in aquariums, and it's a point of debate among experts. The numbers don't entirely support the idea that introducing air into the tank significantly increases CO2 levels. As I understand it, gas exchange works from highest to lowest concentration, meaning that disturbing the surface forces oxygen into the water and CO2 out.

I've observed in my own tanks that some surface disturbance does increase oxygen levels. While I can't measure CO2 directly, I'm certain that it occurs naturally in the tanks. I've noticed that plants respond well to this CO2, and even the fish seem to benefit from it. The "siesta" approach to tank lighting, where the lights are turned off for a period during the day, is supposed to allow CO2 to rebuild. However, I don't think this is necessary in low-tech planted tanks, as the lower lighting and nutrient supplementation are designed to maintain a balance.

Through trial and error, I've found that an 8-hour lighting period works well for my tanks. If I go beyond that, algae starts to become a problem. In one tank with more intense lighting, I've had to reduce the lighting period to 7 hours. I've also noticed that during the summer months, when more daylight enters the room, algae can become an issue. However, by covering the windows during this time, I've been able to eliminate the problem.

It seems to me that CO2 is the limiting factor in photosynthesis. The breakdown of organics in the substrate is the primary source of CO2, and the release of CO2 from fish and plant respiration is relatively minor. I've observed that during darkness, when photosynthesis has stopped, oxygen levels decrease and CO2 levels increase. This is why I've increased surface disturbance in my larger tanks, as it seems to benefit the fish.

As for nitrogen, I'm not entirely sure what's going on. However, I have noticed that in one of my tanks, which is a 20g QT for new fish, the plants seem to weaken when there are no fish present. As soon as fish are introduced, the plants respond positively. It's possible that CO2 is involved, but I think it's more likely that the plants are responding to the ammonia/ammonium produced by the fish. Nitrogen gas is also produced during the de-nitrification of nitrate, and this leaves the water and enters the air.

[creekdwlr]

Wading through all of this science has reaffirmed my calling to teach History. I'm starting to think I should just stick to what I know - dates and events.

As I understand it, my lighting is probably sufficient, given the sword plant has survived for a year. I think I'll look into purchasing root tabs to give my sword and bulb plants an extra boost. I've also been convinced that Seachem's Flourish is the way to go for a more comprehensive fertilizer.

Am I missing anything else?

[goldminer]

I'll try to break it down for you since you're new to planted tanks. Light is the driving force behind photosynthesis, which is how plants grow. It's not just about having enough light, but also the right spectrum - red and blue are essential, and a bit of green helps too. I'm assuming you've got your lighting sorted.

Now, let's talk about nutrients. You need a balance of light and nutrients for your plants to thrive. There are 17 essential nutrients, and too much or too little of any one can cause problems. You'll often see algae take advantage of an imbalance.

Nutrients occur naturally, and your source water likely contains some of the harder minerals like calcium and magnesium. Fish food is also a good source of nutrients, which get broken down into the substrate by bacteria. This process also provides carbon, which is a macronutrient.

I'm guessing you're using Tetra's FloraPride fertilizer, which seems to be working for your sword plant. However, it might not be enough for multiple plants or faster-growing species. A more comprehensive fertilizer like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement or Brightwell's FlorinMulti would be a better choice. These liquids get absorbed by the plants' roots and leaves, providing a balanced mix of nutrients.

Substrate fertilizer tabs can be beneficial, especially for heavy-feeding plants like swords and bulb-type plants. I use Seachem's Flourish Tabs, which last for months, making them a cost-effective option.

As for making your own fertilizer, I wouldn't recommend using terrestrial fertilizers. They're not designed for aquatic plants and can cause more harm than good. It's safer to stick with specific aquatic plant products.

The products I mentioned might seem expensive, but you use very little of them. A package of 10 Flourish Tabs can last you over a year, depending on how you use them. API also makes substrate tabs, but I've heard mixed reviews and wouldn't recommend them.

I've found a method that works for me in my Betta tanks. I let the water from my filter spray bare drop down through a 1/2" of air to the water surface. It's a simple trick, and I think it helps keep the gases in the water at constant levels. I've tried using an air stone and pump, but I don't like the noise. This way, it sounds like a fountain, which I find more pleasant. With good lighting and proper fertilization, my plants are even pearling - you know, when oxygen bubbles stick to the leaves. It's a great sign that things are working well.

[boomer]

Steven's explanation of gas exchange is spot on, thanks for clarifying that. When I mentioned "surface disturbance" earlier, I was actually referring to a setup similar to what Steven and others have described. In my 70-gallon tank, which is heavily planted, I've positioned the spray bar to hit the glass just above the water surface. This creates a gentle ripple effect and tiny bubbles around the spray bar, which has helped resolve the oxygen and CO2 issues I mentioned earlier.

Regarding liquid fertilizers and substrate tabs, I've done some experimenting due to an organics issue in my 90-gallon tank. To summarize, I have very soft water with near-zero GH and KH, so I've had to rely on fish foods and plant additives for essential mineflakes. I've found that using Flourish Tabs next to my larger sword plants has been effective in addressing calcium deficiency symptoms. Seachem claims that the nutrients in these tabs don't leach into the water column like liquid fertilizers do, and my experience seems to support this. After stopping liquid additives and using only Flourish Tabs, the plants' symptoms disappeared within weeks.

I've tried various combinations of liquid and tab fertilizers over the years, and I've found that using both together seems to have the most noticeable effect, especially on substrate-rooted plants like my larger swords. Currently, I have a single sword plant in my 90-gallon tank that's thriving with just the tabs, and it's even produced seven inflorescences with adventitious plants. However, I've started using Flourish Comprehensive at half dose to address some calcium deficiency signs in the adventitious plants.

[creekdwlr]

I've been digging deeper and I think I'm going to give both the Flourish tabs and the Flourish liquid a shot.

Looking at my sword, I'm noticing some yellowing on the leaves and they seem to be thinner and more narrow than I'd like. From my research, it seems like this is often a sign of a deficiency in key nutrients like iron. I'm hoping that using both the tabs and the liquid will give my plants the boost they need to really take off. So far, my sword has been doing okay, but it's not really thriving - it's just kind of maintaining itself. I'm excited to see if this combo will make a difference.

[boomer]

I've been around aquariums for a while, but planted tanks are a relatively new venture for me. I've had my fair share of failed attempts at keeping plants alive - they just wouldn't make it. Looking back, I can see it was a mix of bad lighting, poor plant choices, and inexperience.

However, I've recently managed to keep an Amazon sword plant alive for over a year, which is a record for me. I've been using Tetra's liquid fertilizer, but I've been hearing that I need to do more to encourage better growth and expand my plant options.

I recently planted some Top Fin Aquarium Bulbs from Petsmart, and after just five days, they're already sprouting. I want to make sure I'm providing them with enough nutrients.

My problem is that root tabs and other fertilizers are pretty pricey for what you get. I'm looking for a budget-friendly option or, even better, a DIY plant food solution.

Diagnosing plant issues can be quite the challenge, as various problems - including those related to light and nutrients - often present with similar or identical symptoms. For instance, if you're observing yellowing on the new growth of your sword plant, that's one thing, but if it's the older leaves that are yellowing, that's a different story altogether. Yellowing leaves can be caused by a variety of factors, including light deficiencies, and chlorosis - the term for yellowing of leaf tissue - is often a sign that the plant is struggling to produce chlorophyll due to a lack of certain nutrients or insufficient light intensity.

I've found that calcium deficiency typically starts with brown blotches on the leaves that gradually enlarge until the entire leaf yellows and dies. Interestingly, these brown spots are actually iron deposits that the plant is taking up to replace the calcium, so it's possible to misdiagnose the issue as an iron excess rather than a calcium deficiency. Iron is often cited as a potential cause of yellowing leaves, and while it may be the culprit in some cases, adding iron can sometimes have unintended consequences, such as the plant becoming unable to absorb other essential nutrients.

Both Flourish Tabs and Flourish Comprehensive Supplement contain iron, and in most cases, the amount is sufficient. Given that we're discussing a low-tech or natural approach to planted tanks, we're generally dealing with plants that don't have excessive nutrient requirements, as the light and CO2 levels won't support such plants. However, that doesn't mean that certain nutrients might not be lacking.

It's also worth noting that plants require nutrients in specific proportions to each other. Excessive amounts of certain nutrients can be detrimental, as the plant may stop taking up other essential nutrients. This can occur when the plant takes up excess nutrients to store, but these nutrients compete with other nutrients, preventing their uptake. The ability of plants to store nutrients is limited, and this varies depending on the species.

In your case, I believe the liquid fertilizer will benefit all your plants, regardless of whether they're substrate-rooted or floating. The nutrients in the liquid fertilizer will be available to the plants via their roots and leaves. I'm confident that you'll see an improvement with the addition of the Flourish Tab for your sword plant, provided that light isn't an issue - which, based on your previous posts, doesn't seem to be the case.