Hey Guys,
I've got a 10g tank that's been running for about 2 years, and to be honest, the plants are pretty stagnant. Java Moss is the only one showing any real growth. My Jungle Val's been in there for at least 6 months now and I haven't seen any increase in height or runners. On the other hand, my Anubias is producing new leaves like crazy - I get a new one probably every week. Dwarf hairgrass, though, just isn't growing. I've got really bright lights, but my substrate is just inert sand. I've been dosing phosphate and iron during water changes, and still, no growth from the Val or hairgrass. Would switching to a dirted tank make a difference?
Is it safe to add dirt to an established tank?
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reelpursuit - Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2024 3:20 pm
Re: Is it safe to add dirt to an established tank?
Yes and no, to both questions.
Aquatic plants can thrive in almost any substrate, but it's the light and nutrients in the water that truly matter. I've maintained heavily planted tanks for over 20 years with gravel or sand, and I've never found the need for dirt. The initial CO2 boost from dirt is short-lived, and it's easy to replicate with a well-planned fertilization regimen.
I'd love to help you pinpoint the issue, but I need more data. What's your lighting setup like? You mentioned it's bright, but I'm not seeing the algae problems I'd expect with phosphate dosing. Anubias typically does well in low-light conditions, and the brush algae on its leaves in bright light is a common issue.
I'm not a fan of dosing phosphate in planted tanks, as it's often not necessary, especially in low-tech setups. Fish food usually provides enough phosphate for your plants. Iron, on the other hand, might be a concern, but I recommend using a comprehensive liquid fertilizer that balances all the essential nutrients.
Once we resolve the issues, I'd consider removing the Jungle Val. It's a massive plant that requires a lot of space, and a 10g tank might not be the best fit. However, I'd love to know your tap water's GH. Vall typically thrives in moderately hard to hard water, and if your tap water is soft, that could be the problem. The GH reading will give us a better idea of what's going on.
Aquatic plants can thrive in almost any substrate, but it's the light and nutrients in the water that truly matter. I've maintained heavily planted tanks for over 20 years with gravel or sand, and I've never found the need for dirt. The initial CO2 boost from dirt is short-lived, and it's easy to replicate with a well-planned fertilization regimen.
I'd love to help you pinpoint the issue, but I need more data. What's your lighting setup like? You mentioned it's bright, but I'm not seeing the algae problems I'd expect with phosphate dosing. Anubias typically does well in low-light conditions, and the brush algae on its leaves in bright light is a common issue.
I'm not a fan of dosing phosphate in planted tanks, as it's often not necessary, especially in low-tech setups. Fish food usually provides enough phosphate for your plants. Iron, on the other hand, might be a concern, but I recommend using a comprehensive liquid fertilizer that balances all the essential nutrients.
Once we resolve the issues, I'd consider removing the Jungle Val. It's a massive plant that requires a lot of space, and a 10g tank might not be the best fit. However, I'd love to know your tap water's GH. Vall typically thrives in moderately hard to hard water, and if your tap water is soft, that could be the problem. The GH reading will give us a better idea of what's going on.
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shakinStevens - Posts: 77
- Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2022 4:15 pm
Re: Is it safe to add dirt to an established tank?
I've been following some general guidelines for lighting levels in my tank. I've seen recommendations that suggest low lighting is around 12-17 LSI, medium is 20-25 LSI, and high is 28-32 LSI. LSI stands for Lux per square inch of tank surface area, which is a more accurate measure of brightness than watts. I'm currently at the medium level on this scale, but I'm starting to wonder if that's actually bright enough.
When it comes to fertilizers, I've learned that there are two main types: micro and macro. Macro nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but I've found that fish food usually has enough of these. In fact, I've seen my plants stop growing and algae take over when phosphorus levels get too high - I've had issues with phosphorus at 5ppm. If you're using phosphorus fertilizer, I'd recommend getting a test kit and keeping levels as low as possible, ideally less than 1ppm.
Micro nutrients, on the other hand, are a different story. These are 20 or so elements that are needed in very low levels in the aquarium, and iron is just one of them. Since I have hard tap water, I use RO water which has a GH of 25ppm - it's very soft and lacks micro nutrients. I've found that if you're low in any one of these micro nutrients, your plants may not grow. That's why I'd recommend using a complete micro nutrient supplement like Seachem Flourish instead of just adding iron.
Considering my current setup, I wouldn't recommend adding dirt just yet. Instead, I'd focus on determining the actual brightness of my light and checking the water hardness - GH. If the GH is very soft, I'd suggest adding a complete macro nutrient supplement. And until I know what my phosphorus levels are, I wouldn't recommend using phosphorus fertilizer.
When it comes to fertilizers, I've learned that there are two main types: micro and macro. Macro nutrients include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, but I've found that fish food usually has enough of these. In fact, I've seen my plants stop growing and algae take over when phosphorus levels get too high - I've had issues with phosphorus at 5ppm. If you're using phosphorus fertilizer, I'd recommend getting a test kit and keeping levels as low as possible, ideally less than 1ppm.
Micro nutrients, on the other hand, are a different story. These are 20 or so elements that are needed in very low levels in the aquarium, and iron is just one of them. Since I have hard tap water, I use RO water which has a GH of 25ppm - it's very soft and lacks micro nutrients. I've found that if you're low in any one of these micro nutrients, your plants may not grow. That's why I'd recommend using a complete micro nutrient supplement like Seachem Flourish instead of just adding iron.
Considering my current setup, I wouldn't recommend adding dirt just yet. Instead, I'd focus on determining the actual brightness of my light and checking the water hardness - GH. If the GH is very soft, I'd suggest adding a complete macro nutrient supplement. And until I know what my phosphorus levels are, I wouldn't recommend using phosphorus fertilizer.