Having trouble with my aquarium tank

[bowsar]

Hey guys,

I've had this 75 gallon planted tank for over two years and I'm getting frustrated - nothing seems to be growing or thriving. I'm using a Fluval Spectrum LED light, which is specifically designed for plants, and it's on for 10 hours a day. I also use NA Thrive as a complete fertilizer once a week, along with root tabs, and it's supposed to be one of the best on the market. The substrate is EcoComplete, so I'm not sure what's going on.

I've got a bunch of plants, especially swords, that just aren't growing upwards. They're producing new leaves, but the old ones die off and I'm left with a short plant that's not getting any taller than 5 inches. It's really annoying, especially when I introduce new plants and the same thing happens every time. I'm also dealing with algae on some of the plant leaves, like the Anubias, and it's getting out of control. I've attached some pictures below, hoping you guys can help me figure out what's going on.

[Terrafox]

I had a similar issue in my 65-gallon tank recently, and it boiled down to water flow. The fertilizer nutrients just weren't being circulated effectively around the plants.

I've since adjusted the setup - the filter outlet is now a spray bar, and I've added a power head just beneath the water's surface, directing the flow parallel to the surface, from back to front. This creates a circulation pattern where the water flows down the front glass, along the substrate, and then back up the rear glass, where there's a low-pressure area. This change has largely resolved my issue, and my plants are now growing much better.

[dizzy]

I'd say, what's the actual issue here? Your tank looks fine in the pics, so I'm guessing it's not like fish and plants are dying off left and right. If that's the case, it's probably just a matter of making a few tweaks here and there. Terrafox's suggestion about water flow seems like a good place to start, maybe it's just a circulation thing.

[boomer]

I'd love to help you troubleshoot, but more data would be fantastic. That being said, I think we're dealing with a nutrient issue, likely tied to an imbalance of light and nutrients. I've taken a look at the Thrive site, and I'm curious - which of their liquids are you using? There are 11 different options, and the ingredients might give us a clue. Also, do you happen to know the GH of your source water?

The black brush algae on your Anubias is likely due to the bright lighting. Anubias is a low-light, low-nutrient plant, and it would benefit from some shade. Floating plants would be a great addition to help with this issue.

As for your swords, they're heavy root feeders, and they love substrate tabs. I'm a bit skeptical about the Eco-complete substrate, though - many aquarists have reported that it doesn't make a huge difference. I used to use Flourite, which is similar, but I eventually switched to play sand. I've had great results with Seachem's Flourish Tabs, which I've been using for over a decade.

It's also worth noting that nurseries often grow Echinodorus emersed, which means the roots are in water, but the leaves aren't. This can affect the plant's structure and appearance. So, when you see new leaves growing, they might look different from the ones on the plant when you bought it. This isn't necessarily a problem, but rather a sign that the plant is adapting to its new environment.

Now, about the lighting - assuming the intensity and spectrum are suitable, I think the nutrients might not be sufficient to balance it out. One simple solution might be to reduce the light duration. I've found that 7 hours a day works well for my tank, and I've been algae-free for 4 years now. Increasing the fertilizer could make things worse, so let's take a closer look at what you're using. A timer for your tank light would be a great idea, too - consistency is key for both plants and fish.

[bowsar]

I'd love to help you troubleshoot, but more data would be fantastic. That being said, I think we're dealing with a nutrient issue, likely tied to an imbalance of light and nutrients. I've taken a look at the Thrive site, and I'm curious - which of their liquids are you using? There are 11 different options, and the ingredients might give us a clue. Also, do you happen to know the GH of your source water?

The black brush algae on your Anubias is likely due to the bright lighting. Anubias is a low-light, low-nutrient plant, and it would benefit from some shade. Floating plants would be a great addition to help with this issue.

As for your swords, they're heavy root feeders, and they love substrate tabs. I'm a bit skeptical about the Eco-complete substrate, though - many aquarists have reported that it doesn't make a huge difference. I used to use Flourite, which is similar, but I eventually switched to play sand. I've had great results with Seachem's Flourish Tabs, which I've been using for over a decade.

It's also worth noting that nurseries often grow Echinodorus emersed, which means the roots are in water, but the leaves aren't. This can affect the plant's structure and appearance. So, when you see new leaves growing, they might look different from the ones on the plant when you bought it. This isn't necessarily a problem, but rather a sign that the plant is adapting to its new environment.

Now, about the lighting - assuming the intensity and spectrum are suitable, I think the nutrients might not be sufficient to balance it out. One simple solution might be to reduce the light duration. I've found that 7 hours a day works well for my tank, and I've been algae-free for 4 years now. Increasing the fertilizer could make things worse, so let's take a closer look at what you're using. A timer for your tank light would be a great idea, too - consistency is key for both plants and fish.

I'm using Thrive C, the one for low-tech tanks. I understand what you're saying, but it's frustrating to see my swords stuck in a growth plateau. They're producing new leaves, but nothing's growing vertically. I've checked the stats on my Fluval Spectrum light, and it's supposed to be suitable for planted tanks.

To be honest, I'm still not getting it - I've heard swords are relatively easy to grow as long as you've got fertilizer, root tabs, and decent lighting. I think I've got all those bases covered. Your point about emersed growth might be the key, though. After the old leaves die off, the new ones don't seem to be growing upwards like they should. I'm tempted to try growing one of my swords emersed, just to see if that makes a difference.

I've tried a few different things already, like reducing the light intensity, but that didn't work for me. I've also switched to Seachem Flourish for a few months, but that didn't make a difference either. It feels like I'm missing something obvious, but I just can't put my finger on it.

[bowsar]

I had a similar issue in my 65-gallon tank recently, and it boiled down to water flow. The fertilizer nutrients just weren't being circulated effectively around the plants.

I've since adjusted the setup - the filter outlet is now a spray bar, and I've added a power head just beneath the water's surface, directing the flow parallel to the surface, from back to front. This creates a circulation pattern where the water flows down the front glass, along the substrate, and then back up the rear glass, where there's a low-pressure area. This change has largely resolved my issue, and my plants are now growing much better.

I used to run a powerhead, but the current was way too strong for my fish, and I was also worried about breaking the surface too much, I'd heard that's a good way to lose CO2. I can try adding one again, but it seems counterintuitive to me. I do have my filter outlet positioned near the surface, so there's some circulation happening. If it's not the water flow, what else could be the issue?

[Terrafox]

I used to have the same concerns, but after making some adjustments, I noticed a significant improvement in my tank. I also inject CO2 and was worried about losing it, but I found that repositioning the filter outlet and adding a powerhead made a huge difference. I have my lights on for 7 hours a day and EI dose dry fertilizers.

I made a few key changes, including repositioning the filter outlet to create more circulation around the plants. I also added a powerhead, which has really helped to distribute the nutrients and CO2 throughout the tank. My filter has an output of 2000 LPH and the powerhead is 900 LPH, and despite my initial concerns, my fish are thriving and the plants are growing much better. My drop checker is still green, so I know I've still got plenty of CO2 in the water. It's not perfect yet, but I feel like I'm on the right track.

[bowsar]

Honestly, I used to think the same way and was having huge problems. Plants weren't growing, algae was taking over, and I inject CO2 - the last thing I wanted was for it to escape into the atmosphere. I EI dose dry fertilisers and have my lights on for 7 hours a day.

The only big change I made was repositioning the filter outlet and powerhead as I described before. I've got a filter with 2000 LPH and a powerhead with 900 LPH in my 245 litre tank. My fish are fine, including my Angelfish, and plants are growing much better. My drop checker is still green, so there's plenty of CO2 in the water too.

I haven't got the balance just right yet, but I've taken huge steps in the right direction, I think.

[willie32]

I've had a similar issue with my own tank and I think too much light might be the culprit - the algae on the leaves is a dead giveaway, and those low-growing crypts and swords are another sign. I'd try reducing the light intensity but keep the same duration, see how that goes. Boomer's suggestion of adding root tabs for the swords is also worth a shot.

As for CO2, it'll definitely boost photosynthesis, but I'm not convinced it'll lead to more or bigger leaves. And let's be real, moving to a high-tech tank is a big deal - it's expensive, you'll go through more fertilizer, and you'll need to keep a close eye on your fish's health.

[Terrafox]

I'm not convinced CO2 injection is the solution to your problems. In my experience, it can actually cause more issues than it solves. With CO2, there's less room for error, and things can go wrong quickly. If your plants are already struggling, adding CO2 might just exacerbate the problems.