getting started with cichlids, need advice

[mintwave]

I recently picked up a 55 gallon tank and stand for $100 - what a steal. I'm currently cycling it and I've had my heart set on Mbuna/African cichlids. Given their reputation for being overstocked to reduce aggression, I've invested in a filter with a 10x turnover - about 2000 l/h - to handle the bio-load.

I've got a few questions to help me prepare before bringing my new cichlids home.

1. Is a 55 gallon tank sufficient for African cichlids, considering the dimensions - 100cm length, 40cm depth, and 52cm height?

I've always been drawn to cichlids with vibrant colors, like the yellow labs. I prefer solid colors and would love to have a few of each in the tank.

2. Which African cichlids fit my preferences?

My water is semi-hard due to my location, and I don't think I can invest in a reverse osmosis machine.

3. Can African cichlids thrive in semi-hard water?

I've already got some plants in the cycling tank and I'd hate to get rid of them.

4. Are African cichlids compatible with plants?

Considering my tank size, parameters, and preferences, what type of cichlid would you recommend?

Thanks in advance, everyone!

[detroit]

I think Mbuna might be too aggressive for a 55-gallon tank, but I don't have much experience with them. Smaller species like Shell Dwellers and some other Lake Tanganyika fish seem more suitable.

African cichlids do prefer hard water, so you might not need a reverse osmosis machine. To determine the best fish for your tap water, check the water's GH and compare it to the requirements on Seriously Fish.

For example, you could consider Lamprologus ocellatus or Neolamprologus leleupi. There are many small cichlids that can thrive in a community tank, like the shell dwellers from Lake Tanganyika.

[kingrise]

I think @gripit may have some more insight to share on this, and I'd love to hear their thoughts on the matter, especially considering my tank size and water parameters.

[mintwave]

I think Mbuna are quite aggressive and might need a bigger tank, but to be honest, I only kept them for a short while, so my experience is limited.

However, I do think the smaller species, like Shell Dwellers and some other Lake Tanganyika fish, could be a good fit. They're generally less aggressive and might work well in a 55-gallon tank.

Also, keep in mind that African cichlids tend to thrive in hard water, so you might not need a reverse osmosis system. To determine the best fish for your tap water, I'd recommend checking the water's GH and comparing it to the requirements for different species on Seriously Fish.

If you're not sold on Shell Dwellers, you might want to look into other Lake Tanganyika cichlids. There are some species that are pretty vibrant and active, and they might be a better fit for what you're looking for.

[detroit]

I recently picked up a 55 gallon tank and stand for $100 - what a steal. I'm currently cycling it and I've had my heart set on Mbuna/African cichlids. Given their reputation for being overstocked to reduce aggression, I've invested in a filter with a 10x turnover - about 2000 l/h - to handle the bio-load.

I've got a few questions to help me prepare before bringing my new cichlids home.

1. Is a 55 gallon tank sufficient for African cichlids, considering the dimensions - 100cm length, 40cm depth, and 52cm height?

I've always been drawn to cichlids with vibrant colors, like the yellow labs. I prefer solid colors and would love to have a few of each in the tank.

2. Which African cichlids fit my preferences?

My water is semi-hard due to my location, and I don't think I can invest in a reverse osmosis machine.

3. Can African cichlids thrive in semi-hard water?

I've already got some plants in the cycling tank and I'd hate to get rid of them.

4. Are African cichlids compatible with plants?

Considering my tank size, parameters, and preferences, what type of cichlid would you recommend?

Thanks in advance, everyone!

Did you check other species of Lake Tanganyikan fish? You can find them from the videos and links I posted earlier.

By the way, among the Mbuna, probably Yellow Lab (Electric Yellow Cichlid) can be considered, if you're still set on them. Check their requirements again, see if they're compatible with your tank.

However, keep in mind that you can't mix Mbuna (from Lake Malawi) with Lake Tanganyikan fish, as Mbuna are more aggressive. For Lake Tanganyikan, I like Neolamprologus Caudopunctatus - they have blue eyes and yellow fins, and Brichardi, although they're more aggressive.

If you're interested in learning more about these species, I've included some links below.

[coltin]

A tank that's 100cm long is pretty much the bare minimum for Mbuna group cichlids.

The thing with Rift Lake tanks and big filters is the pH of the water - it's usually above 7.0, and in Lake Tanganyika, it's closer to 9.0. When you've got a pH that high, any ammonia in the water becomes super toxic to fish, so you need a strong filter to remove it quickly.

To keep Rift Lake cichlids, you'll need to know your water supply's GH and pH. These fish need hard water and won't do well in soft, acidic water. Lake Malawi's got a GH around 350ppm and pH around 7.6, while Lake Tanganyika's got a GH over 400ppm and pH over 8.5.

What's your water supply's GH, KH, and pH? You can usually find this info on your water supply company's website or by giving them a call. If they can't help, take a glass of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Make sure to write down the results, including the units they use.

Rift Lake cichlids can be tough on plants - they love to eat them and dig holes, which can cause plants to float to the surface. Water Sprite's a good option, though - it's a floating plant that can also be planted in the substrate and does well in most aquariums. If you get too many growing on the surface, you can plant them in the gravel. And if the fish dig them up and they float to the surface, they'll be fine there too.

You could have a trio of sunnygolds, a trio of peacocks, and something else in the tank. When setting up a Rift Lake tank, try to add all the fish at the same time and get them all the same size, so none have an advantage. If you need to add new fish later, rearrange the tank just before adding the new fish, so the old territories are broken up and the new fish has a better chance of surviving.

[whiskerboy]

I've had my fair share of Mbunas in the past, though not for long. I kept about 7 of them in my 100l 2ft tank when they were still young. I've since moved them to my 5ft tank, but I can tell you that plants seem to be okay with them. I've met a few people at my local fish store who've managed to keep a full-on planted tank with Mbunas, but personally, I've opted for a more rock-and-cave-heavy setup with a few plastic plants here and there.

If you're looking for the ideal parameters for Malawi cichlids, there are plenty of websites that'll give you the lowdown. I use a Lake Malawi buffer to get my water parameters just right - it's all about getting the hardness and pH spot on.

I'm no expert when it comes to cichlids, and I've made my fair share of mistakes along the way. But one thing I've found that works is providing plenty of hiding places and caves for them to set up their territories. This seems to reduce aggression and stress. My tank's got one side that's pretty much a rock-and-plant jungle, with plenty of nooks and crannies for them to hide in. The other side is pretty open, and I've found that they love swimming around in the open water during the day, then retreating to their caves in the evening to chill out.

[whiskerboy]

I've had my fair share of debates about filtration, and I'm still not entirely convinced that the general consensus is correct. I mean, the recommendations range from two to ten times the tank volume per hour - that's a pretty big gap.

In my experience, the manufacturer's figures aren't always accurate, so I've had to experiment to find what works best for my tank. I've got a 450l tank, and I'm currently running at 1600lph, which is roughly four times the tank volume per hour. My numbers are stable, and I've got a decent bioload with 40 small cichlids, some messy plecs, and frogs.

From what I've learned, aiming for at least double the tank volume per hour is a good starting point, especially if you've got a relatively clean tank. But if you've got a lot of messy fish, you'll need to adjust accordingly. The key is to keep an eye on your parameters and adjust your filtration as needed. If the filter can't cope, you'll see it in the numbers.

[mintwave]

A tank that's 100cm long is pretty much the bare minimum for Mbuna group cichlids.

The thing with Rift Lake tanks and big filters is the pH of the water - it's usually above 7.0, and in Lake Tanganyika, it's closer to 9.0. When you've got a pH that high, any ammonia in the water becomes super toxic to fish, so you need a strong filter to remove it quickly.

To keep Rift Lake cichlids, you'll need to know your water supply's GH and pH. These fish need hard water and won't do well in soft, acidic water. Lake Malawi's got a GH around 350ppm and pH around 7.6, while Lake Tanganyika's got a GH over 400ppm and pH over 8.5.

What's your water supply's GH, KH, and pH? You can usually find this info on your water supply company's website or by giving them a call. If they can't help, take a glass of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Make sure to write down the results, including the units they use.

Rift Lake cichlids can be tough on plants - they love to eat them and dig holes, which can cause plants to float to the surface. Water Sprite's a good option, though - it's a floating plant that can also be planted in the substrate and does well in most aquariums. If you get too many growing on the surface, you can plant them in the gravel. And if the fish dig them up and they float to the surface, they'll be fine there too.

You could have a trio of sunnygolds, a trio of peacocks, and something else in the tank. When setting up a Rift Lake tank, try to add all the fish at the same time and get them all the same size, so none have an advantage. If you need to add new fish later, rearrange the tank just before adding the new fish, so the old territories are broken up and the new fish has a better chance of surviving.

Thanks for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. I've got pretty hard water here in Israel, with a pH of about 8, so that's a plus.

I've got a couple of follow-up questions, if you don't mind. I recently picked up a big piece of driftwood for my tank, and I'm wondering if it'll be okay for the Mbunas. I'm thinking about their natural habitats and landscapes, and I know they're used to rocky environments. I'll have rocks in the tank too, but I'm not sure about the driftwood - is it okay for them, or will it be a problem?

Also, you mentioned I could get a trio of Yellow Labs and a trio of Peacocks - so that's six fish in total, right? I thought Mbunas needed to be in groups of five or more of each species, so I'm a bit confused. And actually, I've got a friend who works in a fish lab, and they've got some fish to give away - they've got Yellow Labs, Demasoni, and Electric Blue Johannii's. Would these three species be compatible with each other?

[Snout]

I think detroit has knowledge of cichlids.