Planning a paludarium build using an old fish tank and a custom top - kinda like a mini greenhouse. Need some advice on separating the water and soil. Looking for methods using fired clay and silicone, preferably.
Also on the hunt for affordable lighting options for plants - any suggestions?
designing a paludarium structure
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BadgersSong - Posts: 161
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2022 4:47 pm
Re: designing a paludarium structure
Just caught a glimpse of your "monke fish" and had to chuckle - never really looked at its face before. If you're interested, I've got a 55g journal that might give you some ideas. I can walk you through how I set it up if you like the way it looks, but it sounds like you're thinking of something a bit different for your paludarium.
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Giggletons - Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2022 7:36 am
Re: designing a paludarium structure
The monke fish is indeed quite wonderful. I had a chance to check out your tank's progress and I must say, it's come a long way since its inception. I'm actually considering a similar setup, but with a twist - I'll have more stagnant water to accommodate tadpoles. I'm still torn between growing fish, frogs, or crabs, but that's a decision for another time.BadgersSong wrote: ↑Thu Feb 29, 2024 10:22 pm Just caught a glimpse of your "monke fish" and had to chuckle - never really looked at its face before. If you're interested, I've got a 55g journal that might give you some ideas. I can walk you through how I set it up if you like the way it looks, but it sounds like you're thinking of something a bit different for your paludarium.
Creating a documentary of the tadpoles' journey to becoming frogs, all while the tank evolves, sounds like an incredible project. It's definitely something I'd love to explore.
I did have a few questions, though. How did you achieve the rock formations in your tank? And, more specifically, how did you seal the rocks and attach them to the sides? I'd really appreciate your insight on this.
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BadgersSong - Posts: 161
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2022 4:47 pm
Re: designing a paludarium structure
The "rocks" in my tank are actually made from blue insulation foam, easily found at any home store or hardware store. I used a hot knife to cut them into shape - it's a great investment if you plan on doing this kind of thing often, as it saves a lot of mess. Then, I scraped them with a flat metal tool, like a putty knife, to add some texture.
For painting, I used Drylok, which is fish-safe once it cures, so be sure to get the original variety. You can find it at most hardware stores. I also added some color with concrete pigment. My approach is to paint the rocks with a dark color first, then use a lighter color to dry-brush over it and bring out the texture. This technique works really well with Drylok, as it has silica crystals embedded in it, giving it a nice, rough texture.
Once the paint is dry, I just silicone them to the back wall of the tank. Don't be stingy with the glue, as this stuff is extremely buoyant. I carved mine into shelves for mosses and little planters for rooted plants. The bottoms of the planters are open, so I glued in a piece of stainless steel mesh to cover them. Stainless steel is a must, as other metals will rust. You could also use plastic mesh, but it's not as strong.
I cover the mesh with a bit of filter fluff, then fill the planter with aquarium sand, and it's ready for plants. If you choose plants that like "wet feet" - like bog plants - you can have the bottoms of the planters touching the surface of the water. I'm currently growing rice, tea, and a few mystery plants that came in with the mosses. I might replace the tea with pothos or a nice rabbit foot fern later.
There are some process pictures of my original build that might be helpful. When I upgraded, I didn't take any build-along photos, as I had fish and plants waiting for a home and needed to get it done quickly. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
For painting, I used Drylok, which is fish-safe once it cures, so be sure to get the original variety. You can find it at most hardware stores. I also added some color with concrete pigment. My approach is to paint the rocks with a dark color first, then use a lighter color to dry-brush over it and bring out the texture. This technique works really well with Drylok, as it has silica crystals embedded in it, giving it a nice, rough texture.
Once the paint is dry, I just silicone them to the back wall of the tank. Don't be stingy with the glue, as this stuff is extremely buoyant. I carved mine into shelves for mosses and little planters for rooted plants. The bottoms of the planters are open, so I glued in a piece of stainless steel mesh to cover them. Stainless steel is a must, as other metals will rust. You could also use plastic mesh, but it's not as strong.
I cover the mesh with a bit of filter fluff, then fill the planter with aquarium sand, and it's ready for plants. If you choose plants that like "wet feet" - like bog plants - you can have the bottoms of the planters touching the surface of the water. I'm currently growing rice, tea, and a few mystery plants that came in with the mosses. I might replace the tea with pothos or a nice rabbit foot fern later.
There are some process pictures of my original build that might be helpful. When I upgraded, I didn't take any build-along photos, as I had fish and plants waiting for a home and needed to get it done quickly. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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Giggletons - Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2022 7:36 am
Re: designing a paludarium structure
Thanks for the tips, BadgersSong. I'm wondering if I can substitute Drylok with something else - I was thinking of using grout, acrylic paint, and wood glue? I don't want to buy a huge can of Drylok and then never use it again.BadgersSong wrote: ↑Thu Feb 29, 2024 10:22 pm Just caught a glimpse of your "monke fish" and had to chuckle - never really looked at its face before. If you're interested, I've got a 55g journal that might give you some ideas. I can walk you through how I set it up if you like the way it looks, but it sounds like you're thinking of something a bit different for your paludarium.
Also, I'm curious - what do the planters look like before you fill them with the filter fluff and aquarium sand? Do you have any pictures of them empty or is it something I can easily imagine?
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BadgersSong - Posts: 161
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2022 4:47 pm
Re: designing a paludarium structure
I'd advise against using wood glue, even the waterproof varieties. I've worked with Titebond III, and while it's great for its intended use, I'm not sure it's suitable for submersion in water or if it's fish-safe. You might be able to find Drylok in quart cans at your local hardware store, which should be sufficient for your tank. If you store it properly, the seal should last indefinitely, so you can use it for future projects or additions to your current tank.
As for the planters, when they're empty, they resemble flat-topped rocks with large holes carved into the top.
As for the planters, when they're empty, they resemble flat-topped rocks with large holes carved into the top.