Our female betta has had this white stuff on her head since we brought her home. It's always been there, and we're not sure what it is. She seems healthy otherwise, and the tank is fine too.
We've got a few meds on hand - Jungle Fungus Clear, Fritz Coppersafe, and API Melafix. If anyone's got a better idea, we're open to suggestions. We've also got a quarantine tank set up just in case.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
- Greg & Jess
can someone identify this object?
Re: can someone identify this object?
I'm no expert, having only had two bettas before, but I did have one with a tumor that had a similar white color to what you've described. Hopefully, it's not that and it's something treatable. I'd definitely wait to hear from more experienced members, though.
Mine started as a tiny white dot and developed into something more over the course of about 100 days.
Mine started as a tiny white dot and developed into something more over the course of about 100 days.
Re: can someone identify this object?
The dark patch on the side of the head is a small sore, and it's covered in excess mucous, which is the cream-colored stuff. Don't worry, it's not contagious.
You've got a couple of options for treatment. I'd recommend trying salt first, and if that doesn't work, then you can consider a broad-spectrum medication.
There's also excess mucous on the top lip and over the body, which is usually a sign that something in the water is irritating the fish. This could be due to ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, plant fertilizers, medications, or something external that's gotten into the tank. A big water change and gravel cleaning should help, along with cleaning the filter.
First things first, test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.
Next, take a clean fish sponge and wipe down the inside of the glass. This will remove the biofilm, which can harbor all sorts of bacteria, fungus, and other microscopic life forms.
For the next week, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day. This will help reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and give your fish a cleaner environment to recover in. Just make sure any new water is free of chlorine and chloramine before adding it to the tank.
If your filter is more than 6 weeks old, give it a good cleaning. Wash the filter media in a bucket of tank water and then reuse it. Just be sure to tip the dirty water out in the garden or on the lawn. Cleaning the filter will help reduce the amount of gunk in the tank and make any medication you might need more effective.
After a week of water changes, you can start adding some salt.
You can use rock salt, swimming pool salt, or any non-iodized salt. Just add 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 liters of water. If you don't see any improvement after 48 hours, you can double the dose.
Keep the salt level steady for at least 2 weeks. If you don't see any improvement after that, do some more water changes and consider a broad-spectrum medication that targets bacteria, fungus, and protozoa. Just steer clear of antibiotics.
The salt won't harm the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp, or snails.
Once you've used salt and your fish has recovered, do a 10% water change each day for a week using fresh, dechlorinated water. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. After that, you can start doing bigger water changes to slowly dilute the salt out of the tank.
If you do water changes while using salt, just be sure to add salt to the new water before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable and minimize stress on the fish.
When you first add salt, mix it with a small bucket of tank water and then slowly pour it into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
You've got a couple of options for treatment. I'd recommend trying salt first, and if that doesn't work, then you can consider a broad-spectrum medication.
There's also excess mucous on the top lip and over the body, which is usually a sign that something in the water is irritating the fish. This could be due to ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, plant fertilizers, medications, or something external that's gotten into the tank. A big water change and gravel cleaning should help, along with cleaning the filter.
First things first, test the water for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.
Next, take a clean fish sponge and wipe down the inside of the glass. This will remove the biofilm, which can harbor all sorts of bacteria, fungus, and other microscopic life forms.
For the next week, do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day. This will help reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and give your fish a cleaner environment to recover in. Just make sure any new water is free of chlorine and chloramine before adding it to the tank.
If your filter is more than 6 weeks old, give it a good cleaning. Wash the filter media in a bucket of tank water and then reuse it. Just be sure to tip the dirty water out in the garden or on the lawn. Cleaning the filter will help reduce the amount of gunk in the tank and make any medication you might need more effective.
After a week of water changes, you can start adding some salt.
You can use rock salt, swimming pool salt, or any non-iodized salt. Just add 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 liters of water. If you don't see any improvement after 48 hours, you can double the dose.
Keep the salt level steady for at least 2 weeks. If you don't see any improvement after that, do some more water changes and consider a broad-spectrum medication that targets bacteria, fungus, and protozoa. Just steer clear of antibiotics.
The salt won't harm the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp, or snails.
Once you've used salt and your fish has recovered, do a 10% water change each day for a week using fresh, dechlorinated water. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. After that, you can start doing bigger water changes to slowly dilute the salt out of the tank.
If you do water changes while using salt, just be sure to add salt to the new water before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable and minimize stress on the fish.
When you first add salt, mix it with a small bucket of tank water and then slowly pour it into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
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Burgermuncher - Posts: 58
- Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2022 5:40 am
Re: can someone identify this object?
My wife had a betta with a similar issue, and we never quite figured out the cause. The white growth would appear, then vanish, only to return later. It was located at the base of the tail in our case, and I even examined it under a microscope, but found nothing conclusive. Despite the growth, the betta seemed unaffected, yet its lifespan was somewhat shorter than expected, around 3.5 to 4 years, which makes me wonder if the growth had a more subtle impact on its health.
Re: can someone identify this object?
Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help us out.
We've already got our betta, Athena, in a 1-gallon quarantine tank and we've been treating her with Jungle Fungus Clear, Fritz Coppersafe, and API Melafix at the recommended doses for a tank that size.
Now we're wondering, would it be safe to also add 1/3 tbsp of API aquarium salt to the quarantine tank?
We really appreciate all your advice and our daughter, Margot, is keeping her fingers crossed that Athena will make a full recovery.
- Greg & Jess
We've already got our betta, Athena, in a 1-gallon quarantine tank and we've been treating her with Jungle Fungus Clear, Fritz Coppersafe, and API Melafix at the recommended doses for a tank that size.
Now we're wondering, would it be safe to also add 1/3 tbsp of API aquarium salt to the quarantine tank?
We really appreciate all your advice and our daughter, Margot, is keeping her fingers crossed that Athena will make a full recovery.
- Greg & Jess
Re: can someone identify this object?
It's generally not recommended to add salt to a tank that's already been treated with chemicals, as this can increase the risk of adverse reactions. When working with medications, it's essential to strike a delicate balance between effectively treating the issue and avoiding overdose, which can be fatal to the fish.
In your case, since the quarantine tank has already been dosed with Jungle Fungus Clear, Fritz Coppersafe, and API Melafix, I would advise against adding salt at this time. Instead, allow the current treatment to run its course and monitor Athena's condition closely. If the issue persists, we can reassess and consider alternative treatments.
In your case, since the quarantine tank has already been dosed with Jungle Fungus Clear, Fritz Coppersafe, and API Melafix, I would advise against adding salt at this time. Instead, allow the current treatment to run its course and monitor Athena's condition closely. If the issue persists, we can reassess and consider alternative treatments.